LFW AW25 Highlights: Mithridate, Harris Reed, Mark Fast and more...

The autumn/winter 2025 edition of London Fashion Week is underway, with Bora Aksu, Harris Reed and Mark Fast among the designers to have already shared their collections for the season.

TheIndustry.fashion show hopped to get the scoop on the latest trends and must-see collections from the first few days of LFW AW25.

Daniel Fletcher's debut collection for Mithridate was, well, very Daniel Fletcher

Daniel Fletcher arrived at the Chinese brand Mithridate with a bang. Though the collection was a far cry from Mithridate's prior works, which almost felt demi-couture, the British designer boldly put his preppy flare on display for all to see.

Fusing British heritage and Chinese craftsmanship, Fletcher brings English ideas of dress to life - whether that be via a tailored ensemble or preppy knits with matching shirts. Each look was composed of storied elements of the British wardrobe but with a contemporary flair. Think tailored coats paired with drop-waist ball gowns and ladylike silhouettes juxtaposed and layered with woollen zip-up hoodies.

Inspired by Richard Curtis' screenplays, referenced by the romcom-themed soundtrack, Fletcher gave fluffy knits and woody suedes leading roles in Mithridate's story. The designer also references poor taste, represented by sickly pastels of yellow and green alongside preppy hues. 

As part of the finale, teenage angst was channelled as the speakers boomed. Rock’n’roll prints and configurations headed down the runway, nodding to a rebellious spirit that is somehow just as British as the put together, preppiness that came before it.

Mithridate said the collection 'presents a new vision which is nostalgic in influence, yet contemporary in execution'. The AW25 collection was certainly a new vision and era for the brand, ushered in by its new Creative Director.

Paul Costelloe showcases Eighties countryside glamour with his equestrian-inspired show 

Irish-American designer Paul Costelloe gave a lesson in elevating country wear with his autumn/winter 2025 collection at London Fashion Week. Presented to the symphonies of Celtic music, Costelloe stayed true to his roots, incorporating heavy Magees of Ireland and Harris Tweed of Scotland – weaving Celtic accents into the collection.

Inspired by the elite pastime of dressage, Costelloe reflected the volume, space and energy apparent in the hobby. With sumptuous flowing gowns, ruffled miniskirts and pluming wool coats – the show provided a modern take on the equestrian style. The colour palette was one of chestnut browns, creams, berry reds and forest greens.

Costelloe played with loud prints, such as minidresses and evening gowns emblazoned with vintage photographs of showjumping and dressage. Meanwhile, riding blazers and culottes were paired with dainty stilettos and wool stockings, and pluming thick-waisted skirts were styled with suspenders and suede evening gloves. However, the outerwear was undoubtedly the star of the show. Both feminine yet practical, the coats and capes evoked Chloé’s eminent AW24 collection.

Accessories also played a key part within the fashion week show, with saddle bags in full grain leather, thick-waisted belts and fingerless riding gloves further evoking the sophisticated country pastime.

Harris Reed challenges show audience 'to be very uncomfortable'

Harris Reed, known for his gender-fluid designs, kicked off London Fashion Week last night with an autumn/winter collection designed to make spectators "very uncomfortable". "I want everyone to be very uncomfortable," Reed said. "I think through uncomfortably, you look deeper within and question a lot about yourself and your surroundings."

British actress Florence Pugh opened the show with a theatrical display. The 29-year-old We Live In Time star donned a sculptural speared black gown with an organza veil and fluttering false eyelashes.

The wider collection was made up of three colours, with bursts of cobalt blue and yellow ochre against pitch black seeping onto the runway. Catsuits, high-rise tutus and caged corsets brought the maximalist and dynamic elegance Reed is famed for. Meanwhile, feathers, shoulder pads and pencil skirts imbued a comforting sense of nostalgia against the unorthodox spikes and spherical plumes of Reed’s previous designs. Towering heeled boots were paired with each ensemble – once again a nod to the outrageous platforms of the past.

When the collection wrapped up, Reed himself stepped out for a victory lap closing the show, running off with a jump and a fist pump to the air. There’s no doubt that fashion enthusiasts share Reeds’ sentiments about this collection.

Bora Aksu pays tribute to the royal ‘beauty queen’ Empress Sisi

Bora Aksu paid homage to the renowned royal Empress Sisi of Austria on his London Fashion Week catwalk. Empress Sisi’s tragic tale has seen many retellings across film, TV and now fashion, as the brand's autumn/winter collection delved into the duality of beauty and sorrow.

The Turkish designer stayed true to his style roots through monochromatic frills, haunting veils and black opera gloves.

The collection embodied the grandeur of the Austrian court through structured jackets and overcoats, sweeping veils and intricate lacework, evoking the Empress’s carefully composed public persona. Meanwhile, the Empress’s repressed rebellion found its form through fluid silhouettes, sharp tailoring and dynamic contrasts, infusing the collection with an edgier, more instinctive energy.

The abundance of textures across the collection played across a palette of whites and creams, punctuated by stark berry reds, opulent purples and nautical blue tones. Delicate white lace and intricate feminine patterns evoked Empress Sisi’s ethereal presence, while dramatic silhouettes, veils and dark accents hinted at the turbulence beneath the surface. Soft, flowing fabrics juxtaposed with bold tailoring created garments that captured both vulnerability and strength.

Gothic glamour ruled the runway at Mark Fast

Mark Fast opened his show with a vampire-esq ensemble and the gothic glamour didn't end there. The voluminous gowns oozed romance with every swish of fabric as they glided through the packed benches of onlookers dressed in their finest LFW looks. However, in classic Fast fashion, gowns were followed by bodycon mini dresses that made their way down the overly-lit runway, this time imaged in both velvets and stretchy knits.

As the colours became brighter and hemlines higher, Fast, renowned for dressing the clubgoers amongst us, injected the atmosphere with a shot of 1980s new wave via the sound system.

The designer used corseted tops and dresses to serve as symbols of the past reimagined, juxtaposing antique techniques with modern silhouettes. Meanwhile, knitted straps wrapped around models' necks, embellished with chains that weave through the collection, unbreakable yet fluid. And of course, where there are Mark Fast bandage dresses, there are Mark Fast colour-saturated denim mini shorts.

Overall, the AW25 collection embraces modernity reimagined in classical styles, all underpinned by the designer's famous knitted techniques.