LFW AW25: BFC demands government's 'respect for fashion' ahead of CEO's departure
As London Fashion Week (LFW) kicks off with the inaugural British Fashion Council (BFC) Network Breakfast, Chair David Pemsel and CEO Caroline Rush launch the festivities, sharing their expectations for the coming days.
Now in its 41st year, LFW is back for the Autumn/Winter 2025 season, with 120 shows, presentations and events from new designers such as Conner Ives, Edeline Lee and Di Petsa, as well as mainstays of the London lineup such as Erdem, Simone Rocha and Burberry.
In his speech, Pemsel said that he understood members' and patrons' demands for "respect for fashion".
"From the government we hear that they want greater clarity and data around specific asks to demonstrate impact. From the designers that they need us to unlock connections, access to finance, business opportunities, storytelling and break through red tape," he said. The BFC Foundation has multiple initiatives to serve the latter, including the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund and BFC NEWGEN.
"This season, we are doubling down on creating real impact," he continued. "With crucial funding from the Department for Business and Trade and the GREAT Campaign [fashion show to illustrate the industry’s innovative efforts to tackle the climate crisis at COP26], we’re strengthening our International Guest Programme, bringing high-profile buyers and tastemakers to London—people with real spending power who can transform our designer businesses."
London Fashion Week is set to launch London Fashion Week The Shop, presented by the week's principle partner,1664 Blanc, on Regent Street, with support from Crown Estates, helping to providing "a crucial retail opportunity for independent brands".
The BFC NEWGEN showroom on will be open on Monday, along with the NEWGEN show space supported by the Department for Culture, Media and Sport, remain key pillars of the commitment to nurturing emerging talent.
The Department for Culture, Media and Sport has also pledged an extra £1 million to the BFC’s NEWGEN initiative, offering the next generation of designers vital showcasing opportunities, business mentoring, and essential financial support. This year's NEWGEN designers include Aaron Esh, Sinéad O’Dwyer and Tolu Coker. Meanwhile, 1664 Blanc continues to create valuable opportunities for emerging talent.
This is Rush's last LFW as Chief Executive. Pimsel thanked her for "her legacy and for handing over the BFC in a strong position with lots of opportunity to build on". She will be succeeded by Selfridges Creative Director Laura Weir in June.
Rush expressed her excitement for the packed week ahead, but also acknowledged the difficulties faced by the fashion industry today.
"These are challenging times for British fashion," she said. "Although we’d prefer the landscape to be different, one thing I know is that this community is resilient and creativity is heightened further when facing adversity. Now, more than ever, we need support from press, buyers and government to ensure our designers can continue to lead, innovate and grow."
Rush urged the government to increase access to finance for designers, broker an improved trading agreement with the EU, and bring back tax-free shopping.
Rush concluded: "I’d like to thank our world class designers, our partners who support our mission, and last but not least, I couldn't make my final speech at LFW without thanking my incredible BFC team. It’s been an honour to work with you and thank you for always going the extra mile."
