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In Pictures: Paul Smith unveils new SS25 collection on day one of Pitti

Tom Bottomley
12 June 2024

Sir Paul Smith himself presented his new SS25 collection at Villa Favard, described as a "gorgeously ornate 19th century villa" in the centre of Florence, on day one of the Pitti Uomo trade show.

He also talked through the 60s inspired designs with a select audience, as the villa was transformed into ‘Bar Paul’ – in tribute to the Italian cafes that he frequented in London’s Soho in the 1960s.

The collection features a "louche and tactile" approach to tailoring, with ties worn loosely knotted and paired with denim chore jackets and unstructured blazers in cotton canvas.

Suits are cut from classic houndstooth and Prince of Wales fabrics, while outerwear uses bold statement fabrics.

A collection highlight is an oversized trench coat constructed from a custom Italian cloth with an "exploded pastel" check design, based on the Paul Smith signature stripe.

The presentation was also an opportunity to announce a new project coming in early 2025, as Paul Smith has collaborated with heritage US denim brand, Lee.

In the early 1970s, Smith began importing Lee painter pants to sell in his first shop in Nottingham. That connection now comes full circle with a capsule of printed denim, jacquard trousers, woven tops and T-shirts.

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