How I started in fashion: Dune London founder Daniel Rubin

In this new content series, TheIndustry.fashion takes a closer look at the early journeys of some of the industry’s most influential leaders - from their first jobs, the skills they honed along the way, and the advice they would give their younger selves at the very start of their careers. We also invite them to share what the next chapter of their professional journey looks like - and how they hope to grow from here.

First up is Daniel Rubin, the founder and chairman of footwear giant Dune London. A British businessman with deep roots in the shoe trade, Rubin built Dune from a small concession store on London’s Oxford Street in 1992. Since then, the brand has grown substantially and today operates hundreds of stores and concessions worldwide.

He tells TheIndustry.fashion about how his family business sparked his passion for footwear, recounts his early experiences and career transition into the industry, and shares the valuable lessons he learned along the way.

Have you always had an interest in fashion? Why does it appeal to you and why did you want to work within it?

My father owned a factory that made women’s fashion shoes. Both he and my mother were keen on fashion and always dressed immaculately, which influenced me. After qualifying as an accountant, I tried working in banking and finance but found them boring. Growing up in the 1960s, I really enjoyed the fashion scene in London, which influenced fashion globally. I love the creativity of fashion. Its constant change makes it both challenging and exciting.

Tell us about your first job in fashion. What drew you to the role? What this experience was like?

I started my fashion career working for my father in his factory in Stoke Newington, London. I was thirty years old and had left a job as Finance Director of a demolition company. My father was making knee-high boots for the fashion brand Biba and the boots were flying off the shelves. Although I was a Chartered Accountant, I became passionate about the product, from the design to the making of the shoes in the factory. I soon realised that manufacturing footwear is a complicated business, involving around 150 different operations.

As my father’s health deteriorated, I took over responsibility as Managing Director. I handled buying the components - particularly the leather, which was the main value in the product - ensured that production targets were met, worked with the designer on developing the range. and visited customers to sell it. Selling was the key responsibility, as the main priority was keeping the factory full. Most of the retail customers were based in Leicester, so travelling up and down the M1 with samples was a time-consuming but crucial day-to-day activity.

What were the most valuable skills or lessons you gained from that first experience?

The most valuable lesson was understanding the product and ensuring that both the design and production were of a high standard. Attention to detail was crucial. For example, making the vamp height of a court shoe just 2-3 mm too high can completely change its appearance, turning it from sexy to frumpy. Maintaining this focus on the product is essential for success as a manufacturer, retailer and brand.

If you could go back and give your younger self one piece of advice at the very start of your career, what would it be - and why?

Be aware of change and respond quickly to it. There I was, making shoes in London, so involved in the day-to-day operations that I was slow to notice production rapidly moving to the Far East, where costs were much lower. Belatedly, I sold the factory and became an importer before starting Dune in 1992.

What does the next chapter of your own career look like and how are you hoping to grow from here?

I am the founder and chairman, so my career is unlikely to change. However, the biggest opportunity for Dune London is to grow internationally and become a truly global brand. Currently, 35% of our sales are international - and our aim is to increase that to 55% within three years.

Rubin further reflects on his journey - from family shoe manufacturing and early industry experiences to founding Dune in 1992 and navigating decades of change - in his new memoir, Sole Survivor: How I Built a Global Shoe Brand.

Our columnist Eric Musgrave also explores Rubin’s story in Footwear Memories Unboxed by Daniel Rubin, offering insights into the lessons learned and the resilience that shaped his career.