How I started in fashion: Coco de Mer owner & CEO Lucy Litwack

Lucy Litwack is perhaps the foremost figure in the UK lingerie market, with a career spanning three decades, including names such as Victoria's Secret, Bendon and David Beckham Body. She joined the British lingerie brand Coco de Mer in 2014 as Managing Director and carried out an MBO in 2017. Litwack has retail in her blood, coming from a family of shopkeepers and is equally passionate about female empowerment.

Have you always had an interest in fashion? Why does it appeal to you and why did you want to work within it?

In a nutshell, yes. Retail is in my blood - my parents were jewellers, and I grew up learning the art of shopkeeping. Owning Coco de Mer has felt like getting the keys to my forever home.

I always found it surprising that lingerie was considered something you wore for someone else - when in fact it is the only item of clothing that we can wear which no one else sees, unless we choose to show it to them. I love that it is actually our secret power – something for ourselves, above and beyond anything or anyone else.

I’m sure there are many similarities across the fashion industry – the pace, the creativity, the love of it – but there feels like such an intimacy about the lingerie world – a delicacy, yet a strong core and a dogged belief in the impact for the wearer – much like the creations I suppose. It’s something similar to the sartorial craftsmanship of Saville Row – there’s such expertise that goes into these pieces, and those who have experienced the impact really are such loyal believers in the power of luxury lingerie – the care that goes into creating these pieces, the quality of the materials, the meticulous design, you can just feel the difference it makes. And there are so many different characteristics, feminine yet bold, structured yet delicate; a bit like women with our myriad different mindsets and personalities. This world is full of hugely talented people – the lacemakers, the toymakers – it’s such a progressive and joyful world to be in.

Lucy Litwack has always championed female empowerment

I believe in the empowerment of women, and the healthy self-confidence that comes with pleasure seeking, and a more progressive viewpoint. Lingerie is about redefining sexuality on our own terms as women, and it really can be life-changing. Coco de Mer is such a perfect home for that belief, and has been such a pioneering space for female pleasure.

To me, the lingerie world is an ever-evolving and extraordinary world of female sensuality, creativity and sexual self-expression. Who doesn’t want to be in that universe? The lingerie industry has evolved over the years from a functional service to a fun, fashionable expression for women. I have a seemingly insatiable desire to create a safe space for women to explore, to satisfy their curiosity, to push boundaries and above all, to experience pleasure and joy. Owning and growing Coco de Mer allows me to influence and support dreams, sensuality, and satisfaction, all with beautiful creations in the mix.

Tell us about your first job in fashion. What drew you to the role? What was this experience like?

I started my career agency-side, and one of my clients was a lingerie brand – after developing their corporate identity and brand packaging, I went to work with them in-house as their Head of PR and Marketing and the rest is history!

I always thought I would work in agencies. I started in my gap year, before university, and worked throughout my degree in different advertising and branding agencies but as soon as I started working in lingerie, that was it - I fell in love…

What were the most valuable skills or lessons you gained from that first experience?

Working in a start-up during the ‘dotcom boom’ was completely invaluable. The pace of a start up teaches you everything in fast-forward – how to build a business from scratch, the agility and language of a small company, and a small team means you’re involved in so much more, with such visibility to learn all the different areas of the business rather than being siloed. It’s certainly not for everyone, but it has been integral to my experience. And now as a leader, it is so helpful to have worked across departments, and to understand the challenges of everyone’s role.

Coco de Mer Monmouth Street

Tell us about your current role. How did you get here and what do you most enjoy about it?

The brand was launched in November 2001, with the beloved flagship boutique on Monmouth Street in Covent Garden. I joined as Managing Director in 2014, completing an MBO in 2017, and have been the owner and CEO ever since.

I have over 25 years of experience in the lingerie world,  managing the brand strategy, creative design, merchandising and development of a multitude of luxury and commercial brands. Prior to joining Coco de Mer in 2014, I held director positions at brands including La Perla, Bendon and Victoria’s Secret, in addition to developing and launching David Beckham’s Bodywear line.

With 26 years of working in lingerie, I can safely say there is something very special about Coco de Mer.  The purpose was clear from the start and has been there ever since; to cultivate a space and brand focused on lifting up women, shining a light on female pleasure and celebrating the joys of life.

From art to culture, education to pornography, we believe the female perspective on pleasure in all its forms is little discussed or truly understood. And yet, from general happiness and confidence, to deepening and nurturing our relationships – and a fundamental appreciation of ourselves – knowing and owning female pleasure and sensuality can be life-changing.

We believe that pleasure done well fires all the senses; that sight, sound, taste, touch and smell are a system greater than the sum of their parts. From statement lingerie to exquisitely designed toys, we are creating products that are designed to fully explore the fun, joy and endless possibilities of women and their sexuality.

Coco de Mer brand ambassador and Olympian Denise Lewis

Our focus is always on the female gaze – we only work with female photographers and all female crews on our shoots to ensure that we create a safe space for our models and talent. There is something very moving about the female gaze – it is intimate, quietly powerful, sensual - and totally relatable. We think this is inspiring to women everywhere. It’s also why we are an all female team in head office - female owned and female led - our products are made for women, by women.

Coco de Mer has always been proudly British, and that heritage continues to inform our aesthetic and values. At the same time, our mission - to champion female pleasure and empowerment - demands global reach and cultural relevance. Luxury today is no longer about ownership alone; it is about emotional connection, meaning, and belonging. Consumers are not cutting back so much as choosing more carefully, seeking authenticity, sustainability, and experiences that create lasting memories.

I am so passionate about Coco de Mer. The brand has always punched above its weight, but I still believe it is yet to realise its full potential. It has been considered a niche brand in the past, but it has the potential to be so much more - a true, global luxury brand, focused on female pleasure.

When it comes to a typical day for me, it’s busy! The days begin with an early walk with my dog, Charlie, and working through the morning emails. I have a few days in the office, and others when I’m online and in meetings with clients, collaborators, agencies - and then there will usually be a few events and panels. I also try to work on the shop floor as often as I can. It’s so important to be able to speak to our customers directly and spend time with our retail team who are fountains of knowledge about the hearts and minds of our customers.

A few times each month I will have meetings to catch up with the FGM organisations I work with, which always helps to inspire me. Supporting women’s causes will always be integral to the Coco de Mer world and FGM is a cause very close to my heart.

Inside Coco de Mer Monmouth Street

If you could go back and give your younger self one piece of advice at the very start of your career, what would it be - and why?

Opportunities rarely come with a set of instructions. Take risks from time to time or you’ll never achieve anything. Risk more and risk earlier. My younger self had energy and time that I would happily have now. Your power to achieve, even at a very young age, is limitless. And enjoy yourself! I am so lucky to do something I am passionate about - it really does make all the difference to a happy life..

What does the next chapter of your own career look like and how are you hoping to grow from here?

Working on our 35th anniversary plans, I hope!

There is such momentum gathering behind all we are doing at Coco de Mer, and at such a time when the dial around female pleasure genuinely feels as though it is shifting, so the time is prime to galvanise that energy.

Luxury shoppers today crave individuality and personality. Consumers want to feel understood. Personalised, timely, and relevant experiences are now the true currency of luxury.

For us, this means truly knowing our customer - who they are and what brings them pleasure. In our boutique, every detail is considered: tactile materials, flattering lighting, sensory richness, and an atmosphere that feels joyful and indulgent. No woman wants to try on lingerie under strip lighting. We are, after all, selling pleasure.

Looking ahead, the future of luxury lingerie lies in balancing digital innovation with deeply human connection - creating seamless journeys that feel intimate, curated, and meaningful. Luxury is becoming more intentional, more emotional, and more personal, and that is where its power lies - which makes looking ahead even more exciting.

The business case for prioritising women's health and sexual wellness is proving itself on a daily basis. Estimates for the global market in 2025/2026 range from $21.57 billion to over $83.6 billion, depending on the inclusion of broader sextech and pharmaceutical segments. The global sex toy market was valued at $35.2 billion in 2023, projected to hit $62.7 billion by 2030. Women's health is thankfully gaining momentum, and the UK market is thriving, with a report by the NHS Confederation showing an additional £1 investment per woman could generate an estimated £320 million return to the economy.

It might be a world of fun, but this is no laughing matter in commercial terms, and the business case is proving itself every day. Our Pleasure Collection and Intimate Play categories account for 35% of our sales - And then there are the Salons… An educational platform, to whet the appetite for erotic understandings and products alike.

As inflation continues to shape spending habits and commerce moves ever further online, the future of traditional bricks-and-mortar retail is often questioned. Yet I remain convinced that physical space, when done properly, will become even more meaningful. Luxury has always thrived in moments of uncertainty by offering something grounding: beauty, craft, and human connection. Having grown up on the shop floor, and being able to see first hand the transformative effect of lingerie on our customers in our Knightsbridge boutique, I would love to grow our retail offering in the years ahead, both nationally and internationally.

Looking ahead, honesty, authenticity, and individuality will define success. Customers are choosing brands with a point of view – those willing to be inclusive, thoughtful, and real. Sustainability is no longer optional; it is integral. Doing good must feel good, and responsible luxury will continue to shape purchasing decisions. Our next step this year is our Positive Luxury reassessment. We realise the importance of protecting our planet and are dedicated to reducing our carbon footprint, embracing climate-smart strategies and being transparent in everything we do to create a more sustainable tomorrow. I like to think of it as tending to Mother Earth and female pleasure with equal care.

(I also often daydream about running a rescue shelter for dogs, that is such a lifelong ambition of mine - something I still hope to do in retirement!)

Has there been a person in fashion that you have always admired and why?

I have had the great fortune, over the course of my career, to work for, and with, some of the most incredible people in this industry. And I have been, and still am surrounded by so many people from whom I learn so much.

Iris Apfel and Annie Leibovitz are two women I find hugely influential.

Iris – what an icon – the flamboyant style, the outspoken personality, a true trailblazer.

Annie’s photography has always moved me - and I love how she portrays fashion as the serious business that it is, and women as not only beautiful, but admirable and strong.

Dolly Parton and Marilyn Monroe may not specifically ‘work in fashion’ but their look is/was so central to their existence. I love women who on the surface may appear to be ‘dumb’, weak or controlled by men but who are actually underestimated, own their sexuality and use it to their advantage - who understand how powerful, and brilliant, they really are. Marilyn Monroe – the original influencer – is the embodiment of this woman. She worked hard, was paid well and took creative control in a world not built to protect women.

Ruth Bader Ginsburg was everything I admire in a leader, using her intelligence, eloquence and female strength to push barriers. There is a quote of hers that I love, “Fight for the things that you care about, but do it in a way that will lead others to join you.” This is something I really try to emulate.