How far can John Lewis push it in fashion?
John Lewis is on the up. A brand that forgot its stores under previous chair Dame Sharon White, who thought she was running a charity with a retail side arm, new boss Peter Ruis is in charge and is leading a retail renaissance – hopefully!
The widely respected retail veteran, who has previously worked at M&S, Ted Baker and Levi Strauss, Jigsaw and Anthopologie, re-joined John Lewis in January 2024 (he had previously been brand and buying director at John Lewis from 2005 to 2013). In just over a year, it feels like the last UK national department store chain has strong impetus and finally things are moving.
The retail industry is getting behind the new John Lewis drive to be an ambitious and aspirational store lead by desirable brands and leaning back into its history of ‘Never Knowingly Undersold’, which Ruis quickly restored, after being dropped for a couple of years.
But, between the £65 Hermès lipsticks, £366 Loewe candles and £550 Marc Jacobs The Sack Bag, how far can John Lewis push its customer upwards?
Peter Ruis (The Canadian Press/Alamy Live News)
Listening to Ruis, Peter Jones is set to rival Harvey Nichols in the 1990s and that sort of exciting ambition is exactly what we all need. The view from the top floor cafeteria is to die for. But, not every John Lewis is a landmark building in Chelsea, arguably one of the most exciting shopping areas in London currently.
John Lewis recently announced 49 new brands across its men’s and womenswear collections for spring/summer 25, including British designer du jour S.S.Daley, whose knits sell for around £500.
A John Lewis spokesperson told TheIndustry.fashion that they are not sharing the full list at the moment, “however we are introducing a great range of brands throughout the new season across John Lewis fashion including Dragon Diffusion, Marc Jacobs, Pour Moi, Second Female, Suncoo, SAYE, Edblad, Colourful Standard, Stella McCartney kidswear and NN07.”
It was also confirmed John Lewis will also be stocking Barena, the cult Venice-based men’s and women’s label.
Ruis’ strategy is to lead with beauty and fragrance, reinvigorating those areas, usually the ground floors, and rippling it out to the rest of the store. Concessions, run by their own staff, are being introduced by brands with more expertise, for example Waterstones bookstores at John Lewis Oxford Street. Menswear brands like Aubin, which is currently in 29
John Lewis stores, prefer to run areas with its own staff who can prioritise getting product on the floor and merchandising. Brands can also pay for or contribute to the fit out.
Ruis has a lot to do before it all comes together. He needs to get the investment into the shop fit, reorganise the famous John Lewis customer service and continue to encourage customers to leave home and rediscover stores perceived as tired.
How will these new luxury brands look merchandised in the stores? Consumers are more brand aware and knowledgable than ever. There is always an appetite for a designer label from the British consumer. John Lewis has a huge opportunity with wealthy Baby Boomer and Gen X consumers, who are often overlooked, particularly by fashion brands.
Ruis wants to lean into John Lewis’ Britishness, which, done right, never dates and is always ripe for invention. Though he has to make a profit and pushing the company upwards into more expensive brands could be the answer, but he needs to be careful to stretch the choice rather than forget other tiers of shoppers.
John Lewis is a big machine and is often slow. Ruis will be given time, it doesn’t answer to shareholders, but staff are desperate for a bonus after two years without. Though, they do seem to be onboard.
Ruis knows that retail is about excitement and discovery. It’s about aspiration for both retailer and customer, but it also has to sell. John Lewis needs to build, stocking fancy fashion brands one season, then dropping them the next will only confuse customers. How high will John Lewis fly?
Main image: John Smedley's exclusive diffusion line for John Lewis
