The Interview: high street high flyer Barbara Horspool on setting up her own brand Mamu
Barbara Horspool is one of UK fashion retail's best known executives, having held senior creative and design roles at Marks & Spencer, New Look and Jigsaw. Until June 2024 she was Chief Product Officer at The White Company and since then has been consulting and conceiving her own brand Mamu, specialising in multi-generational fashion for 'Me-time'.
Using premium and sustainable fabrics and calling upon the support of the suppliers she has worked with throughout her career (as well as her twin daughters), Horspool has created a range that elevates off-duty style for women of all ages.
Horspool talks us through her inspiration, her aspirations and her full-circle career journey that has taken her from entrepreneur and brand founder to the highest echelons of the high street and back again.
When you left The White Company, was it always on your mind to set up your own brand?
When I left The White Company it never occurred to me to stop or to even slow down. I felt reenergised and free creatively. So many colleagues & friends encouraged me; after having worked for some amazing brands I wanted to return to a company of my own – back where it all started when I had my own label Blanche with partner Mark Betty and we sold to Harvey Nichols, Joseph. Whistles (in the great Lucille Lewin era) & Bergdorf Goodman. It was the community of my friends that I exercise with, women from all ages and backgrounds, that really pushed me to start Mamu. They all complained they couldn’t find comfortable and stylish loungewear and nightwear.
Barbara Horspool of Mamu
I love the concept of clothes for 'Me-time', what sparked that idea?
Post lock down we were all working from home a lot more and I really felt there was something missing in my wardrobe, pieces that I could relax into but still felt sharp and chic enough if one of my team popped over for a meeting I was casual but confident. There is a time at the end of the day when I felt exhausted from playing the roles of career woman, mother and wife, when I just wanted to close the door on my life and relax and be myself. To value Me-time. Instead of throwing on any old clothes to hand, I felt it was important to be just as stylish and confident when I was resting. Mentally feeling comfortable with how you look empowers you - how you look and feel at all times, even when you’re switching off affects your belief in yourself. That’s where ‘restwear’ came from as an idea. The fabrics are unapologetically luxurious which is crux of the collection – items that indulge you as you sip your wine, read your book or blast your tunes – whatever you chose to do to escape and be yourself.
Mamu Organic Stretch Silk PJ Set £275
You say the brand is ageless, can you tell us why you wanted to achieve that and how you went about it?
I have always been an advocate of forget age think attitude. My inspiration came from the women around me – the amazing women who I’ve met in my life. The many women I’ve worked with, my peers and all the young women starting their career in fashion who I’ve learnt so much from. And especially my exercise class who are my biggest fans; we all differ in age and size but our attitude is always positive and we lift each other up always. And I must mention my beautiful twin daughters who are in their twenties who have lived the Mamu journey from concept (one of whom designed all Mamu’s logo and artwork) and who love and want to wear the same pieces as I do. That’s the joy of Mamu – it’s multigenerational in its essence - a style and fit that works for all women. It’s about your energy – feeling confident is an energy, an energy that’s sexy and powerful. You don’t need permission to be powerful anymore, you can just be yourself. Years ago comfort was a swear word but today it's a non-negotiable quality for everyone whatever their age. You can't be stylish if you're uncomfortable.
Mamu Red and Navy Cotton PJ Set £70
Can you give us some insight into what the range includes?
Power dressing for the home. Being the best ‘you’ between the sheets and beyond. The collection guarantees you will look stylish at home and whenever and wherever you chose to wear it. Super soft stretch organic silk nightwear and separates currently unique to Mamu, the most luxurious cashmere, hoodies and joggers that feel so soft you may as well be naked. Alpaca, cashmere and plush towelling layers are the closest comfort you’ll get to a hug. Lightweight ribbed PJ’s a soft as a feather. Always with a love of natural fabrications and always carefully chosen to be as sustainably sourced as is possible which is never easy for a small start-up brand.
Mamu Marl Sweat £60 and Jogger £70
Have you been working with suppliers you knew from your vast career in fashion?
It was a wonderful opportunity to reconnect with suppliers from my past who have all said “it's about time Barbara this is what we have been waiting for”. Few people realise just how important and valuable your relationship is with your suppliers. They are partners – your success and theirs are intertwined. In starting Mamu they have been my greatest allies and as much as I may have had a long career in fashion, I’ve learnt more from them in my Mamu first year than I've learnt previously. I cannot thank them enough.
How about distribution, what are you plans there? Will you be starting as D2C for instance or are you looking at marketplaces/wholesale?
I have some exciting plans so it’s a bit of a watch this space. Our website will launch at the end of September. www.mamu-dream.com. The fabrics are so soft and the attention to fit is so detailed that we hope to have physical retail space. After all in this world preoccupied by AI, the emotional response you get from touch can’t be replicated digitally!
Mamu Jersey Print PJ set £75 and Cosy Alpaca Socks £25
You are working with your daughters on this project, can you tell me what roles you are all playing in the venture?
Talula is a graphic designer and has been instrumental in helping me define and deliver Mamu’s DNA. Storyboarding, casting models and helping on our campaign and e-comms shoots along with the branding. I’m also lucky she’s a perfect fit model. Eva is a dancer so her in-put has been about practicality. How it feels to wear; the texture and touch, how does this move, comfort and fit and the ease in the elevated sweats to the softest of robes, silk pyjamas and form-hugging jersey. She’s named Eva the diva and if she doesn’t like something she’ll tell you straight! We have some great simple pieces of menswear for Christmas, so my son, PR and my dear late husband all had their say in how those pieces felt.
Mamu Latte Alpaca Hooded Dress £98
You’ve had some huge jobs on the high street, how does it feel now launching your own business?
Bloody scary… but exhilarating. Sometimes I panic, and other times I look at the rail of clothing and the mess that’s taken over my house and feel very proud. Most people who I’ve worked with in my long career describe me first and foremost as passionate. When you love what you do, you have no choice, it’s my DNA, it’s my unstoppable energy. Working for myself is not a job, I’m not at work at all, I’m just loving this creativity that comes from understanding my audience and creating a collection that excites them and makes them feel better about themselves.
Barbara Horspool will be speaking at TheIndustry.fashion Summit, Retail Reset, on 22 October 2025 at Nobu Hotel, London. Use code FF30 at checkout to receive 30% off your booking. Learn more and secure your seat here.
