Gucci's surprise reveal: Demna’s debut dropped ahead of Milan Fashion Week
Gucci has surprised the fashion industry by unveiling Demna’s debut collection for the house, La Famiglia, via Instagram - a day before its much-anticipated Milan Fashion Week show.
Presented as a digital reveal, La Famiglia lays the aesthetic foundation for Demna’s vision ahead of his first runway show for the house. Characterised by unapologetically sexy designs, the collection signals a new era at Gucci under Demna’s direction - one that embraces heritage while pushing forward with his provocative approach.
Gucci described it as "the genesis of a new Gucci era. It reinterprets the House’s codes through framed portraits of an extended Gucci family, made up of singular personalities and distinctive aesthetic attitudes: the different facets of Gucci’s personas."
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The early digital launch underscores a wider shift in how luxury houses are experimenting with direct-to-consumer storytelling and surprise drops to capture audience attention in an increasingly crowded fashion calendar. With Milan Fashion Week underway and major debuts expected from rival houses, Gucci’s decision to pre-empt its own physical event highlights the brand’s strategy to dominate conversation.
Demna’s appointment as Artistic Director in March 2025 followed a turbulent few years for Gucci, which saw Alessandro Michele exit after seven years of maximalist reinvention and Sabato De Sarno’s short-lived "quiet luxury" experiment fail to connect with consumers.
Demna, Artistic Director at Gucci
Best known for co-founding Vetements and later reshaping Balenciaga with his subversive, streetwear-inspired vision, Demna brings an conversational, dimly lit aesthetic that is a sharp contrast to Michele’s ornate, colour-rich world. His decade-long tenure at Balenciaga was marked by explosive growth but also public scrutiny, including two ill-judged campaigns that sparked global backlash. Kering’s Chairman François-Henri Pinault said at the time of his appointment: "Demna’s creative power is exactly what Gucci needs."
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Demna’s debut also comes at a critical financial moment for Gucci and its parent company. In July, Kering reported a 16% revenue decline for the first half of 2025. Gucci reported revenue of €3 billion (£2.5 billion), down 26% on a reported basis and 25% on a comparable basis. Comparable sales through its directly operated retail network fell 24%, while wholesale revenue dropped sharply by 42%.
Earlier this month, Kering named Francesca Bellettini as Gucci’s new President and CEO. She succeeds Stefano Cantino after less than a year and will report to Kering’s newly appointed Group CEO Luca de Meo. Bellettini said she was "excited to embark on this new challenge together with the whole Gucci team and alongside Demna, whose creativity I have always admired."
The combination of Bellettini’s proven commercial discipline and Demna’s disruptive design language represents a high-stakes reset for Kering’s flagship brand. Together, the duo face the challenge of restoring Gucci’s growth and relevance at a time when rivals such as Dior, Prada and Loewe continue to capture consumer attention. With La Famiglia, Gucci signals its intent to recapture cultural dominance, and not by playing it safe.
Gucci La Famiglia collection is available exclusively in ten Gucci stores from 25 September-12 October. These include: Beijing SKP, Beverly Hills Rodeo Drive, London New Bond Street, Milan Monte Napoleone, Paris Montaigne, Seoul Cheongdam, Shanghai Plaza 66, Singapore Marina Bay Sands, Tokyo Aoyama and Wooster New York.
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