Government urged to implement variable EPR fees for fashion and textiles
The Government is being urged to implement variable Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) fees immediately to drive sustainability and establish a circular economy in the UK fashion and textiles sector.
A groundbreaking, industry-backed White Paper has been developed by QSA Partners with the support of industry bodies, UKFT, British Fashion Council and British Retail Consortium, along with several luxury, fashion and retail brands.
It is to be unveiled at the UKFT Sustainability Conference in London today (part of the EPR Sandbox project) and emphasises the need for "immediate government action to enable a more circular economy and create a variable EPR textile scheme that works for all".
The proposed variable EPR fees would ensure that producers bear the cost of their products' end-of-life treatment, "rather than passing this burden onto communities and the environment".
The EPR Variable Fee White Paper argues that an EPR framework is needed for the industry to increase recycling and the reuse of products and materials, while reducing unnecessary consumption and the harmful impacts of production.
In the UK the fashion and textile industry is a significant player in both economic and environmental landscapes ontributing approximately £62 billion to the UK economy. However, the environmental cost of the industry is substantial as well. The NGO WRAP estimated in 2019, that 336k tonnes of clothing is sent to UK landfills annually.
The current fashion and textiles waste management system is described as "global and intricate", making it unrealistic for producers to manage their products' end-of-life treatment directly. Variable EPR fees would channel funds to local operators who can process these products responsibly, preventing environmental harm.
The sandbox project, set up last year. has set out to revolutionise fashion sustainability by analysing extensive producer data to support circular eco-modulation of fees. Data from over 500,000 garment types, spanning hundreds of millions of items, were scrutinised. The project achieved accurate results for over 85% of the data, ensuring robust insights even for incomplete data sets.

Burberry is backing the scheme (Image: PA)
This ambitious initiative received backing from UKRI (UK Research and Innovation), and included a Steering Committee chaired by UKFT with members from the British Fashion Council, the British Retail Consortium, global luxury brand Burberry, Marks & Spencer, New Look, John Smedley, a global sportswear brand and a leading online resale platform.
Key findings from the initiative are:
- Data Integration: Developed new methods to rapidly connect large volumes of product, sales, and weight data, allowing for accurate analysis.
- Variable Fee Models: Tested different fee structures, including per-item, per-kilogram, and fees based on circular attributes, encouraging sustainable design.
- Circularity Incentives: Proposing a central fund to promote repair, reuse, and recycling, could offer financial benefits to producers engaging in these activities.
- Market Impact: Scaling variable fees across the UK could generate substantial funding for circular activities and reduce costs for producers who adopt sustainable practices.
Independent company WEFT will now take the findings to the next step, which is to lobby for the introduction of EPR fees.
Kristina Bull of WEFT said: "This White Paper presents a compelling vision for variable EPR fees, with strong industry backing, thorough research, and rigorous testing. Establishing a variable fee system is essential for the UK to fulfil its responsibility in managing the end-of-life impact of fashion and textile products. We must not turn a blind eye; we call on the Government to consider the evidence, listen to industry voices, and endorse this White Paper."

UKFT CEO Adam Mansell
UKFT CEO Adam Mansell added: “Working with our partners, we have demonstrated that an intelligent EPR fee based on eco-modulation is possible and could make a real difference to reducing the environmental impact of our industry. An EPR fee scheme based on eco modulation would level the playing field, by rewarding positive action for those designing for end of life and penalising those that don’t take their responsibility to the environment seriously. It is the one issue around sustainability that everyone in the supply chain agrees on – legislation is needed to drive progress”.
British Fashion Council CEO Caroline Rush said the industry needed strong Government support for the initiative. "The fashion industry thrives on creativity and passion for change, so it’s only natural that the BFC was a key partner in the creation of the Fashion Sandbox. We fully support this work; our industry needs strong support from the Government. As we face some of the most challenging market conditions in recent memory, we recognise our responsibility in driving a sustainable future, but the journey requires collective effort—we cannot do it alone," Rush said,
What the fashion brands and retailers say:
Burberry
"At Burberry, we are working to support a more circular economy through our aftercare services and circular business models. These services help our customers keep their luxury products in use for longer. By contributing to this industry-led EPR Sandbox project, our aim is to positively influence the future of the fashion industry in adopting more circular practices.
Sumit Dargad, VP, Quality and Engineering, Supply Chain at Burberry
John Smedley
"As a 240-year-old 8th generation family-owned business, we are committed to manufacturing sustainably. Traceability and raw material partnerships form a huge part of our sustainability journey. The EPR Sandbox project has enabled a steering committee from various sectors within the textile industry to create a process for EPR that is fair to all involved. Everyone needs to become aware of the EPR process and help us shape the future for product end of life and beyond. Incremental gains for reducing our CO2 emissions create huge benefits for the planet."
Tim Clark, Technical Director, John Smedley
Marks & Spencer
"At M&S, we ensure our clothes are made well and made to last and, through Plan A, we’ve been taking action for over 15 years to help customers give their clothes Another life. In 2008, we were the first UK retailer to launch a clothes recycling scheme, and this year we launched a clothing repair service. We are proud to be a part of the Fashion Extended Producer Responsibility Sandbox project and support steps to scale textile recycling in the UK but want to work with Government so that it drives tangible change. A successful EPR scheme must incentivise good business, encourage circular design and invest in UK recycling infrastructure if we are to achieve positive change."
Katharine Beacham, Head of Sustainability in Clothing & Home at Marks & Spencer
Main image: Used clothing dumped at Alto Hospicio, Chile. Alamy.