Russian designer Gosha Rubchinskiy was this season’s invited designer at Florence’s menswear fair Pitti Uomo and showed a collection which fused tailoring with sportswear and featured collaborations with famous Italian sports brands Fila, Kappa, and Sergio Tacchini.
Rubchinskiy, who launched his label in 2008 and is now backed by Comme des Garçons, has made his name with streetwear collections, inspired by Russian youth culture. His Pitti collection, which in terms of styling was still signature Rubchinskiy, also payed homage to Italian design.
Tailored suits with boxy jackets and relaxed-leg trousers were a strong show-opener but, this being Rubchinskiy, they were paired with sneakers and T-shirts for a street feel. A red double-breasted blazer was standout piece and was coupled with 80s-style denim and sneakers.
However the most memorable pieces from the show came from the sportswear collaborations with Italian heritage labels Fila, Kappa and Sergio Tacchini. The sweatshirts, T-shirts, tracksuits and which featured the Italian brand names and Rubchinskiy’s own in Russian script, are set to be next summer’s must-have items, just as the Vetements (designed by Georgian Demna Gvasalia) DHL and Champion T’s and sweats were this summer.
For the ultimate cue on how to do Russian street-style paired with Italian sports heritage, see the outfit in which Gosha Rubchinskiy himself took a bow, an acid yellow Fila sweat with black cut-off denim shorts and New Balance sneakers with black ankle socks. This will be the off-duty look for Spring 17.