Glenn Martens named Maison Margiela Creative Director
Belgian designer Glenn Martens, who served as Creative Director of the recently shuttered Y/Project until September, has been announced as the next to take the creative reins at Maison Margiela, succeeding a decade of John Galliano.
Remember that hallowed day back in December when it felt as though someone had given the Creative Director tree the biggest shake of its existence and everyone fell out?
On 11 December, John Galliano announced via Instagram that he would be exiting his role as Creative Director of Maison Margiela, leaving the industry twittering over who would take the helm at the French luxury house founded by Belgian designer Martin Margiela in 1988.
After 11 years at Y/Project, the Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts alum will replace Galliano. The move makes theoretical sense given that the deconstructed and experimental aesthetic that underpinned much of Y/Project's output is a cornerstone of Martin Margiela's vision, whose brand is known chiefly for its divisive split-toe Tabi shoe.
“I have worked with Glenn for years, I have witnessed his talent, and I know what he is capable of,” Renzo Rosso, Chairman of holding company OTB Group, said in a statement. “After Martin, who gave life to the Maison and its unique Artisanal line, and John, who made it the most cutting-edge couture house in the world, I am proud to have a third couturier at its helm. Glenn, who studied at Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts like Martin, has already shown his prowess and his vision in couture”.
Martens said: “I feel extremely honoured to join the amazing Maison Margiela, a truly unique house that has been inspiring the world for decades. And I thank Renzo for the trust he is putting in me.”
Under Martens' leadership, Y/Project gained global recognition, winning the ANDAM Grand Prize in 2017. He expanded the label's influence through collaborations that included UGG and FILA, as well as the Melissa x Y/Project jelly shoe collab, which earned immediate cult status.
In 2020, Martens was appointed Creative Director of Diesel. His debut AW22 collection received critical acclaim, acting as something of a defibrillator for an ailing Diesel that had struggled to uphold its relevance in the luxury conversation since the end of indie sleaze in the early 2010s. He will continue the post alongside his new role at Margiela.
Martens also designed Jean Paul Gaultier’s couture collection for SS22, blending Y/Project’s signature deconstruction with Gaultier’s corsetry and archival influences.
So Belgian Martens is taking over at Belgian Martin's, but will the Tabi fit?