If I was Isabel Marant, I’d be feeling rather miffed at the moment. In the frenzy of expectation whipped up ahead of the first Hedi Slimane for Céline… sorry, Celine (no accent on the ‘e’ anymore)… show, her latest collection could have been a little overlooked.
As everyone rushed to predict what Slimane would do (bum-grazer minis on models who looked to be in need of a good meal – who’d have guessed it?), labels that turn out trends season and after season just couldn’t compete.
Now I’m not denying that Slimane’s minis, wide shoulders, one-shoulder metallic disco dresses, cover-everything blazers, and skinnier-than-Twiggy suits aren’t commercial. But Marant’s versions fo most of those looks were too, and they’ll probably retail for much less into the bargain.
So here are our top eight items from the show that are bound to influence the mainstream next season.
The slouch boot – studded or laser cut in black, white, washed-out denim or dusty pink suede, they were a go-with-anything option that let the wearer reveal or conceal their legs and set the seal on every look for day into evening. And for those unwilling to leave ankle boots behind, they can be scrunched down to almost-ankle level.
The silver top – in lamé or sequins, the wide cut blouse or sweater came with shoulder pads that made it a more wearable interpretation of the season’s 80s shoulders look. Tuck it into roomy jeans for day or full-cut black pants and add a diamanté belt for after-dark comfort dressing.
The disco dress – think a Grecian-influenced silver mini, a one-shoulder-sheer dress with metallic threads woven through, an oversized sweater or a halter neck in stylised florals. It’s an instant hit for party, festival and holiday season dressing.
Washed out denim – go for 80s-style washes (Wham videos anyone?), the kind that haven’t been cool for a long time. Interpret them in Marant’s favourite grey, pale blues, even pink and turn them into shorts, jackets gilets, generously proportioned jeans and dresses.
Roomy shorts – a high summer special, the shortest-but-baggiest shorts are a perfect foil for the new, wider tops, with their cinched-in waists highlighting the season’s wide-narrow-wide silhouette. It’s quite a while since shorts have made it big on city streets – these could change all that, but like the disco dress, they’ll definitely influence the party, festival and holiday shopper.
The jumpsuit – make it dressed down and functional in denim or washed silks, or disco delicious in elasticated lamé, it’s the simplest option for day-to-night dressing.
The cap-sleeve gilet – wide, casual and surprisingly warm, it’s a summer staple working on the assumption that SS19 won’t see the Sahara-style temperatures of SS18 and that everyone needs an easy cover-up.
The wear-it-anywhere blazer – and talking of cover-ups, the big blazer or tux is an SS19 favourite from all fashion cities and Marant may have offered only one but its was a winner in a perfect wide cut. It works with anything from jeans to athleisure or the new shimmer pieces and really is a seasonal must-have.