Fendi switches creative leadership: Is Maria Grazia Chiuri next in line?
Fendi has confirmed that Silvia Venturini Fendi, the last family member active in a creative role, will step down as Creative Director and assume the newly created title of honorary president. The move, effective immediately, cements her legacy at the Roman luxury house while raising a pressing industry question: who will take the helm next?
Venturini Fendi’s career has been intertwined with the brand for more than three decades. From co-directing with Karl Lagerfeld in the '90s to spearheading menswear and accessories, she became synonymous with icons like the Baguette and the Peekaboo. Most recently, she shouldered women’s ready-to-wear following Kim Jones’ departure in 2024.
"What a wonderful journey it has been, not only creatively but also from a human perspective," Venturini Fendi said, paying tribute to Lagerfeld, Jones, and her "fantastic team".
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Her new role will focus on preserving heritage, craftsmanship and Fendi Casa. But the appointment leaves the brand’s future creative leadership conspicuously undefined. Industry insiders in Milan point to a shortlist of candidates, among them Francesco Risso and Willy Chavarria. But the one the industry is expecting? Maria Grazia Chiuri.
Chiuri, who exited Dior in May after a seven-year tenure reshaping its women’s collections, has a personal and professional link to the Roman maison. She began her career at Fendi before moving to Valentino, and she retains close ties with Venturini Fendi.
Maria Grazia Chiuri
This aligns with broader strategic shifts at Fendi. Ramon Ros, who took over as CEO in July, is tasked with navigating the brand into its second century. At the time, LVMH said: "Ramon’s deep expertise in luxury retail and clienteling, coupled with his passion for product excellence and collaborative leadership, will enable him to elevate the Roman maison to new heights, preserving Fendi’s unique history and commitment to artisanal craftsmanship."
The timing is crucial. Parent company LVMH is navigating a luxury slowdown, reporting a 15% drop in first-half profits to €9.01 billion (£7.8 billion). Its fashion and leather goods division - home to Fendi, Dior and Louis Vuitton - saw revenue fall 7% to €19.1 billion (£16.6 billion) as affluent shoppers tightened spending after years of price hikes.
With Venturini Fendi now moving into an ambassadorial role, echoing Donatella Versace’s recent shift at Versace, her successor will inherit the challenge of not only redefining Fendi’s creative identity but also reigniting sales momentum amid a tougher luxury market. All eyes are on Rome to see whether Chiuri is set to take centre stage (otherwise known as the runway).
