Editors' Top Reads: News from Mugler, Polène, French Connection and more...
Here are some of this week’s news and features highlights handpicked by TheIndustry.fashion team.
Secret Shopper: Polène brings elevated style and service to Regent Street
I can't help thinking that fashion wouldn't be quite so challenged if there were more brands like Polène. I paid a visit to its recently opened London store and found exceptional quality products, elevated design, fair prices and outstanding customers service. The store itself if stunning too with its minimalist design taking full advantage of the grand scale of the architecture of Regent Street, along with considered and sustainable touches, such as fixtures and fittings crafted from leather off-cuts.
There are regularly queues outside of this store, which is why it took me a while to go and do my secret shop (I rarely have the time and never have the inclination to queue outside a shop). Imagine that people queuing to buy your product! For they will if you get the price, design, quality and service balance right. So many fall down on at least one of these (in particular the big luxury houses) and customers are increasingly discerning about where they will spend their hard-won cash.
If you want a lesson in how to do fashion and retail well, go visit the store. And in the meantime, you can read the report of my experience here.
Lauretta Roberts, Co-founder, CEO and Editor-in-Chief.
The Interview: French Connection's Head of Design on the new vision powering its fashion comeback
French Connection this week launched a new campaign that celebrates the raw, unpolished moments of life, showcasing its latest collection as the brand works to reestablish itself as a key player in high street fashion.
After attending a press event for French Connection last month, I was pleasantly surprised by how the brand has elevated its offerings. I picked up a stunning red pleated top and skirt, which I wore to TheIndustry.fashion Awards ceremony - the compliments this received were plentiful!
So, I was eager to connect with Helen Gallagher, Head of Design at French Connection (who joined the business in August 2023), to speak about how she is helping to redefine the brand's identity under her creative expertise.
In this exclusive interview, Gallagher speaks about her role, the brand's new vision, how she incorporates customer feedback into the design process, what excites her most about the future of French Connection, and more.
Sophie Smith, News Editor & Senior Writer.
Miguel Castro Freitas succeeds Casey Cadwallader at Mugler
At this rate, there's another Creative Director announcement per week. Last week it was Loewe's Creative Director appointment, and this week it's Mugler's. But this one came as a shock to the system. Despite his impressive resume, Miguel Castro Freitas, a somewhat under-the-radar designer, has been appointed to helm the iconic house of Mugler.
Mugler, renowned for its fantastical fashion featuring curved lines and figure-revealing mesh, appointed Casey Cadwallader as Creative Director in 2018. Since then, he put the Parisian house back on the map, creating the archival looks that fashion fans craved. He even teamed up with H&M on a collection back in May 2023, garnering the brand even more popularity.
Frietas has big shoes to fill. The seasoned unknown graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2004 and has since held senior design roles at Sportmax, Dries Van Noten, Christian Dior Couture, Yves Saint Laurent, Givenchy and Lanvin. He will show his first Mugler collection during Paris Fashion Week this September.
Chloé Burney, Senior News & Features Writer.
'The support many businesses urgently need is still missing': Retail reacts to Spring Statement
Seriously, when will Rachel Reeves throw us a bone? Even a few crumbs of comfort would help at this stage. Just as retailers are bracing to absorb the additional costs of employing people she felt fit to impose in her Autumn Statement (never will I ever understand this), she's back with a Spring Statement that fails to address any of the business needs of the high street.
As she prepares to axe thousands of public sector roles, it would surely have made sense to make sure that the private sector was in a position to pick up some of those who will be looking for jobs. Instead we're bracing for further job cuts in our sector as the business rates issues remains unaddressed (in fact it's going to get worse as previous relief is removed) and a stubborn refusal to re-introduce VAT-free shopping for tourists, which would not only stimulate retail, but hospitality and travel too.
I know it seems like a favourite national pastime to throw brickbats at the Chancellor and I don't underestimate the task in hand if she thinks her promise to make "only one major fiscal intervention" per year (by which she means one tax raid) is going to deliver the confidence we need, then she is mistaken. If taxes were imposed, along with measures designed to stimulate growth, then we might get somewhere. Yes, I know, she has big plans to build things, but from a high street perspective, filling the stores that we already have has to be a priority.
Anyway, you can read how leading industry figures reacted to her Spring Statement here. Spoiler alert, they were no more impressed than I was.
Lauretta Roberts, Co-founder, CEO and Editor-in-Chief.
The Interview: Prohibited co-founder Patrick Reimann on breaking into the UK market through ASOS
Prohibited from Berlin is another of those streetwear brands that have seemingly grown from a few T-shirts and hoodies to overnight success. It was only founded in 2021 as a "TikTok-first" brand but is already flying via stockists such Zalando and About You in its home German market, as well as via ASOS in the UK – with its first season for AW24 seeing it become the second most successful menswear launch for the online retailer after Carhartt, a brand which carries a lot more clout and history. It’s quite incredible really.
As a result, every season since has apparently seen ASOS up its budget with Prohibited, which now offers so much more than just the aforementioned Tees and hoodies (though they are still a very important part of the business).
Speaking to Prohibited co-founder Patrick Reimann gave a real insight into their strategy. They want to be a more accessible version of the likes of Represent and Cole Buxton, with a "modern Yuppie" appeal which "combines streetwear with sporty elegance".
The UK market is now very much more on their radar and, though it can’t be mentioned who just yet, Prohibited has another big UK retail player on board to sell its products from this autumn. It’s a brand we’re likely to hear a lot more about going forward. The interview is well worth a read.