Editors' Top Reads: News from M&S, Abercrombie & Fitch, Moda x Pure and more...
Here are some of this week’s news and features highlights handpicked by TheIndustry.fashion team.
M&S shakes up leadership, appointing ex-Boohoo CEO to drive clothing business
In its last set of numbers, covering the crucial 13 weeks to 28 December 2024, Marks & Spencer achieved a 1.9% like-for-like sales growth across its clothing, home and beauty departments. That is a great performance in a tough market and underpinning that was a particularly strong performance from its fashion business, which is steadily regaining market share.
The man credited with the fashion renaissance at M&S – Richard Price, who has served as Managing Director of Clothing, Home & Beauty since 2020 – is now leaving. It seems Price is off to pursue a portfolio career and I can see no shortage of retail businesses (and those outside of the sector) wanting to tap into his expertise and get him onto their boards.
He is passing the reins to John Lyttle, formerly of Boohoo and Primark, in what has been described as a planned handover. Lyttle is credited with helping Primark achieve stunning success when he was COO. While Boohoo initially prospered under his leadership as CEO, he spent much of his time in the latter part of his tenure attempting to fend off the advances of Frasers chief Mike Ashley, who has been determined to install himself at the helm of the online fashion group.
An executive of Lyttle's calibre probably wasn't going to be on the market for long so it's no surprise that M&S went for him, but it's perhaps something of a surprise that Price is being allowed to go and pursue his portfolio career right now. That being said, the power behind the fashion throne at M&S is Maddy Evans, formerly of Topshop, who has been credited, quite rightly, with injecting fashionability back into its offer. She has been promoted to Director of M&S Woman, so there is continuity there. And Price has left a steady ship for Lyttle. Let's hope he keeps that ship on course.
Lauretta Roberts, Co-founder, CEO and Editor-in-Chief.
Will the influx of Creative Director moves revitalise the luxury sector?
Can you believe the amount of comings and goings at Europe's most prestigious houses? Even I ended up dizzied - who could possibly keep up? Even yesterday, Gucci threw its hat in the ring, announcing Sabato De Sarno was stepping down out of the blue.
In the early days of 2025, the fashion industry made some major announcements, such as the duo behind Proenza Schouler exiting the helm of the brand they founded. This was the first domino to fall in a string of major moves.
From then on, rumours began to emerge that the Schouler boys were headed to Loewe, leaving Jonathan Anderson free to take the reins at Dior - an answer to many fashion insiders' prayers. But that wasn't all. Those in the know have spilt the beans on Daniel Lee's departure from Burberry and potential move back into the world of minimalism in the top job at German brand Jil Sander.
I was left wondering why there is such upheaval. Will this be the cure to giving the luxury industry a much-needed boost? This feature examines who is moving where and what industry insiders have to say about it.
Chloé Burney, Senior News & Features Writer.
Show report: Brands confident at busy Moda x Pure while buyers tread with more caution
It was very encouraging gauging the feedback from some of the exhibitors at the newly merged Moda x Pure show next to Spring Fair at Birmingham’s NEC when I paid a visit on Monday.
Yes, there was talk of buyers treading with more caution and placing "more considered orders", especially now many gather data on bestselling brands, styles and sizes, but the overall feeling was very positive and the place was buzzing with industry folk.
Tiago Da Silva, Head of Ecommerce at Yumi, said that the show had great footfall and he’d seen a lot of repeat customers, with buyers looking for new trends and new materials – a shift to better quality garments. He also said he thought buyer confidence is growing, especially after going through Covid, the knock-on effects of the Ukraine war and the continuing cost-of-living crisis.
Meanwhile, Jay Chawla, Sales Director at Nova of London, said that Monday had been a busy day for them, but Sunday had been "extremely busy" with people queuing to place orders. You can’t ask for much more from a trade show than that.
Additionally, first time exhibitor, Victoria Taylor, Head of European Sales at Trixxi Los Angeles – a popular brand in its home market making its first steps outside of the US – spoke of placing "several orders" with plenty of additional retailer interest to follow up on. That’s exactly what trade shows are all about and long may the ones that remain in the UK deliver good results all round.
Tom Bottomley, Contributing Editor.
What to expect from fashion month: New York, London, Milan and Paris
Fashion fanatics, including the team here at TheIndustry.fashion, are gearing up for an influx of designer debuts and returning big names to hit the fashion week runways this February and March.
With New York Fashion Week now underway, designers will be showing their autumn/winter 2025 collections with industry heavy weights and celebrities no doubt gracing the front rows.
Known for its bold creativity and cutting-edge designs, London Fashion Week then returns from 20-24 February and will feature the usual suspects, including Paul Costelloe, Emilia Wickstead, Erdem, Richard Quinn and Roksanda, as well as Burberry, which also remains one of the highlights of the LFW calendar.
Be sure to keep an eye out for our upcoming interviews, show highlights and social media content during London Fashion Week, but in the meantime, here's a summary of what to expect from New York, London, Milan and Paris this fashion month.
Sophie Smith, News Editor & Senior Writer.
Secret Shopper: Abercrombie & Fitch, but not as you know it
Earlier this week, I took a little trip to Abercrombie & Fitch's new Covent Garden store. The last time I shopped at one of their stores was when I made my parents queue outside with me and then dragged them around in the dark until my dad put his foot down. This was last year. Only kidding.
Anyone who remembers the original format of an Abercrombie & Fitch store from the days would certainly have several preconceptions about what their latest bricks-and-mortar presence might entail.
First, an almost complete lack of lighting which allows you the singular experience of purchasing an item of clothing without actually knowing what it looks like. Second, a syrupy aftershave aroma that smells exactly like you're in an Abercrombie store but also smells like all other aftershaves. And finally, an army of rippling, partially-nude sales assistants, some of whom may or may not have been hired for the sole purpose of dancing on the spot to the lyricless beat blaring overhead. Finally, lots of wooden decor and probably an enormous taxidermy moose head.
The new store fit is thankfully very different. Find out how in the feature.
Katie Ross, Content & Events Executive.
