E.Tautz: LCM AW16 Menswear Review

A stonkingly good soundtrack accompanied the E.Tautz AW16 catwalk show this season.  Frankie goes to Hollywood, Evelyn Thomas, Hazel Dean and Annie Lennox booming out "Sweet Dreams are Made of This" brought us back to a memory of 80s roller disco as recounted by designer Patrick Grant.

Grant has worked with Debenhams on his new menswear capsule for several season now and it would seem to have had an effect on the his sensibilities as this AW16. This collection was noticeably more commercial, and in parts quite sober.

A colour palette of school-boy grey, and inky navy prevailed punctuated with soft brown and RAF blue. Grant loves topcoats and this season they were oversized with a dropped shoulder and more relaxed fit. There was also a safari coat which seemed to be a hybrid between the overcoat and the parka and a standout piece for AW16.

Suiting and trousers were noticeably roomier, with pleats and a wider cut leg, which added to the more relaxed silhouette. There was retro touches such as silk scarves tied in a bow at the neck of the models. This season I missed some of the specialist textiles, bold checks and luxe embroidery that has been part of the E.Tautz DNA in the past and, whilst this collection was perfectly executed, it lacked some of the editorial oomph on the catwalk.