Depop reveals second-hand fast fashion is 'displacing' new purchases

Circular fashion marketplace Depop has released new research in partnership with The Waste and Resources Action Programme (WRAP), which demonstrates how second-hand shopping on the platform ‘displaces’ the purchase of brand new items.

Globally, over three in five purchases on Depop displace the purchase of brand new items elsewhere. In the UK, it's 68%; in the US, it's 64%; and in Australia, it's 72%.

Looking specifically at second-hand fast fashion bought on Depop, the study found virtually no difference in displacement rates (69% UK, 63% US, 74% AU), indicating that the platform encourages both fast fashion and non-fast fashion consumers to choose second-hand options.

The study also says that Depop users are "intentional" as, if an item isn't available, the vast majority of buyers (71%) will either keep searching or buy nothing at all, "showing more deliberate and sustainable consumption patterns among Depop users".

Cathy Moscardini, Head of Sustainability at Depop, said: "When we talk about ‘displacement’, we mean the extent to which purchasing a second-hand item on Depop prevents the purchase of a brand new one elsewhere. So, in essence, it means the majority of our users are opting to buy second-hand instead of brand new.

"Our new data reveals that 71% of surveyed Depop buyers would continue to search, or even abstain from a purchase altogether, if they couldn’t find a desired item second-hand on Depop. Only 6% would opt to buy a brand new fast fashion item instead.

"Fast fashion purchases on Depop are displacing new fast fashion purchases at rates comparable to our overall displacement figures. This suggests that consumers are embracing second-hand fashion across the board, including fast fashion - not because of an item’s perceived quality, but because they are demonstrating a growing commitment to environmental considerations."

Depop’s mission is to make fashion more circular, as production of new garments is a major contributor to the overall environmental impact of a piece of clothing. Reusing what already exists is seen as a straightforward way to reduce this impact.

Moscardini added: "To drive real change, however, this effect must be measured credibly and consistently. That is why Depop collaborated with industry peers and WRAP to contribute to an updated, standardised framework for measuring how circular fashion business models like resale offset the demand for new clothing.

"As circularity gains momentum, it is crucial to verify whether circular business models are truly slowing the need for new fashion. By estimating Depop’s own displacement rate, we can better understand the environmental impact of purchasing second-hand fashion on Depop, compared to brand new items elsewhere.

"By facilitating the continued use of clothing already in circulation – including fast fashion – Depop helps to extend the life of those garments. This can reduce the overall demand for new production and can help limit the environmental impact of new fashion."