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Craig Green: Bondage! Bedlam! Brilliant! LCM AW16 Review

David Watts
13 January 2016

"Exploring the concept of protection" suggests the show notes for Craig Green's AW16 collection.  Worshipping at the temple of Green involves a strict dress code not for the faint-hearted.

Restricted, taut, bindings, tapes and wide ruched bands are worked in with more voluminous tailoring. A more classic tailoring form was that of a suit which still retained the ruched band around the bicep. These garments keep the body contained and enveloped from head to toe. However they are shapes reminiscent of workwear and even straitjackets found in an asylum, where inmates were being "protected" from even themselves.

The colour palette of sand, military green, burnt orange and black added a dept to the collection and the washed silks added a contradictory softness to a "tough" uniform which created a distressed and eroded appearance.  The large eyelet strewn leather pieces hand bound together with strips of fabric were both a confusion and a distraction.

Less than four years on the menswear fashion scene and following a meteoric rise to fame, there is no doubt that Craig Green is a very talented designer. It's early days for this cutting-edge brand but I suspect Craig Green could forge his own menswear niche such as Rick Owens has done.

It's not to everyone's taste and a very specific look, but for his followers, it may become the "only" way to dress. Analysing this collection it begs the question "when does fashion become uniform, and uniform become fashion?" Clearly when it's in the hands of Craig Green!

Images: Chris Yates

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