Caruso: MFW AW16 Menswear Review

Raffaele Caruso was a noted Neapolitan master tailor who in 1948 decided to move to the region of Parma in Italy and set up his bespoke tailor shop. Today Caruso is a leader in the production of premium hand made Italian tailoring with more than 600 staff.

Quality fabrics, finishes and accessories are the cornerstones of this brand and its commitment to excellence results in around 4,000 prototypes developed each year in its design atelier. The brand prides itself on first class hand-made and hand finished products.

The attention to detail and playful approaches to the less formal ranges Caruso for AW16 took us on a trip from the terrestrial to the stars and beyond. “The Tailored Pioneer” is manifested as an astronaut traveling through the sparkling firmament. With a compact but wistful presentation featuring mannequins with beards and Daliesque moustaches, which lended itself to getting up close to the precise details in the collection.

The pom pom was a jaunty detail used as a flower buttonhole. A print of stars and planets suspended on a midnight blue jacquard was used for smoking jackets and a touch of tuxedo luxe. Horizontal and oblique stripes, open worked and embellished knits, were layered and worn as twin sets.

Luxe fabrics are exclusively produced for Caruso by the famed Lora Piana mill for jackets, coats and outerwear. For Aw16 Caruso debuts a small leather goods collection with the same attention to detail, in chocolate deerskin and black brushed calfskin.

Caruso is a brand that has yet not come into the mainstream in the UK (an exclusive range is available at Trunk Clothiers) but it’s only a matter of time before it starts to build traction with the more discerning male.

Images: David M Watts