Bold proportions, retro glamour and statement dressing take centre stage at Milan Fashion Week SS27

From Prada’s exposed bras and Fendi’s sheer layers to Gucci’s Eighties glamour and Moschino’s exaggerated silhouettes, Milan Fashion Week SS27 brought statement dressing, playful proportions and plenty of references to the past to the runway.

Across the week, designers explored underwear-as-outerwear, business-inspired dressing and exaggerated silhouettes, while Eighties and Seventies references appeared alongside more playful approaches to colour, proportion and styling.

Here are some of the standout collections and moments from Milan Fashion Week SS27.

Prada takes underwear-as-outerwear to new extremes

Prada pushed underwear-as-outerwear to the forefront for SS27, with bras worn as tops and skirts sitting low on the hips. The collection was shown at Deposito at Fondazione Prada, where Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons received a standing ovation at the end of the show.

Rather than the body-conscious styling often associated with exposed lingerie, the collection played with oversized proportions. Low-slung skirts, loose sleeveless knits and oversized jackets created a deliberately undone feel, while bras were paired with everything from pleated skirts to evening pieces.

The collection also continued the season’s interest in business dressing, with knee-length skirts, tailored jackets and sleeveless knits stripped back from their usual office context. Bright green leather, pale blue and baby pink organza and statement accessories added colour to the otherwise pared-back silhouettes.

Fendi makes a bid for Milan Fashion Week’s sexiest show

Maria Grazia Chiuri presented her second collection for Fendi with underwear-as-outerwear, sheer slips and backless dresses taking centre stage.

Silk bras and shorts were layered with oversized fur coats and stoles, while white lace dresses were worn over black underwear. The collection also drew on Seventies styling through boho vests, low-slung jeans, oversized sunglasses and bedazzled headscarves.

Fendi’s accessories provided a more familiar connection to the house, with classic bag shapes reworked through texture, fringing, colour and sparkle. Dramatic black gowns, many of them backless, added a red-carpet element to the collection.

Gucci brings back Eighties glamour

For his second Gucci runway, Demna Gvasalia looked to Eighties glamour through broad shoulders, nipped-in waists, oversized fur coats, chunky belts and pencil skirts.

The show took place inside a recreation of a Gucci store, with models moving through rails of clothing, jewellery cabinets and mirrors. Womenswear combined equestrian references with more polished pieces including cigarette trousers, pussy-bow blouses and tweed two-pieces.

Chunky belts were a recurring detail, appearing individually or layered together, while oversized coats and glossy leather brought a more relaxed edge to the collection. The show also featured older female models, adding to its exploration of different characters and ideas of who belongs in the Gucci world.

Moschino’s new designers declare an end to boring clothes

Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo, the duo behind Sunnei, made their debut at Moschino with a collection built around exaggerated proportions, clashing colours and playful silhouettes.

The designers distorted familiar wardrobe staples, turning shirt dresses, polo shirts, trenches and tailored pieces into oversized or unconventional shapes. Balloon skirts appeared in both mini and floor-length forms, while peplums returned in exaggerated proportions.

Bright yellow, turquoise and red brought energy to the collection, alongside garments covered in abstract multicoloured faces. The designers said they had focused on understanding what made Moschino distinctive rather than directly recreating its archive.

The collection arrives as designers across Milan continue to move away from minimalism, with exaggerated shoulders, fuller skirts and bold colour appearing across the SS27 collections.

Together, these collections signal a Milan season where bold proportions, retro references and playful styling are pushing statement dressing back into the spotlight.

TOD'S celebrates life's simple pleasures in quintessentially Italian show

Quintessentially Italian leather house Tod's presented a Spring/Summer 2027 collection rooted in a distinctly Italian attitude, with a catwalk given over to life's simple pleasures and pieces that felt both timeless and understated.

The colour palette revolved around natural tones, with burnt hues and accents of saffron yellow, red and horizon blue reinforcing the collection's quiet restraint.

Leather remained the house's material of choice, running through skirts, bandeau tops, fluid blouses and trench coats, while a calfskin biker jacket brought a sharper edge to collection.

In bags, the Candy Bag returned from the archives, its elongated silhouette playfully echoing the shape of a sweet, while the Di Bag continued to evolve and now took the form of a maxi tote.