BFC secures new government funding to support emerging designers
The British Fashion Council has secured new funding from the UK Government ahead of London Fashion Week in February to aid emerging talent amid a challenging time for the industry.
CEO Caroline Rush said the governmental department for Culture, Media and Sport has committed a further £1 million in funding for the coming year, on top of its existing support for the BFC Newgen programme.
Rush said that the fresh round of funding would go towards a show venue for the BFC Newgen designers, covering presentation costs and business mentoring for the early-stage designers.
"The British fashion scene is undeniably tough. But having worked for years with designers, retailers, partners, and the creative community at large, I can think of no better group to navigate the challenges we are facing in the UK and the global challenges for our industry at large," Rush told WWD.
She added that the Government needed "to work with us to increase access to finances to help our designers and brands deliver on their growth promise." She is also campaigning for tax-free shopping to be reinstated, which she believes "would immediately breathe confidence into the industry. That, in turn, will have a positive impact on our designer fashion community."
Tax-free shopping was a side-effect of the Brexit deal, and the government has so far declined to restore it because the funds are needed elsewhere.
London Fashion Week is a day shorter this year, and the finalised schedule includes a host of new faces, including Ashish, Maison Sara Chraïbi and Maison Artc.
The week will kick off with Harris Reed on Thursday night, and cornerstones of the LFW line-up, including Burberry, Erdem, Simone Rocha and Richard Quinn will punctuate the following days.
Designers showing under the BFC Newgen banner include Ancuta Sarca, Sinéad O'Dwyer, Di Petsa and Chet Lo.
There are also several designers choosing not to show in London, including JW Anderson, Nensi Dojaka, Knwls and Chopova Lowena. Many brands are opting for one show per year to ease cost pressures. Fashion shows now typically cost between £200,000-£300,000.
"It is no secret that it is a challenging environment. The cost of doing business due to the impact of leaving the European Union, and challenges around access to finance and payment terms, have put additional pressure on designers," said Rush.
She added that the BFC is in constant dialogue with designers to better understand how they are addressing these challenges.
"It is important that we support designers in making the right choices for them and that we continue to provide options for showcasing and connecting with the UK and international media and retailers, while thinking about opportunities for businesses to diversify revenue streams," she continued.
In another effort to promote young talent, the BFC is introducing a showcase on the last day of London Fashion Week, at 180 Strand in London, for designers supported by the BFC Newgen programme to speak to international media and buyers.
The BFC has also been working behind the scenes to connect designers with potential partners and venues.
Last year, LFW's biggest partner, 1664 Blanc, supported designers including Aaron Esh, Charles Jeffrey and Tolu Coker. The drinks brand will continue to work with the BFC in supporting London's creative community.
The BFC has also been using funding from the Department of Business and Trade and additional money from the Great Campaign (the UK's international communications programme) to ramp up its international guest programme in an effort to strengthen the impact of LFW for showing designers.
We are focusing on welcoming guests from key markets to London Fashion Week who have significant spending power, and have secured an incredible lineup of international buyers and press who will be in town across the week," Rush added.
"By nature, we change. The system will evolve but the role of [London Fashion Week] remains as a critical platform for brands to increase their brand awareness, secure sales, and for us to convene the industry, and support creativity and design," she concluded.
As reported, Laura Weir, currently Executive Creative Director at Selfridges, will succeed Rush as CEO of the BFC on April 28, following the news in December that Rush would be stepping down from the post.
The BFC has not responded to request for comment.