Berluti confirms Haider Ackermann appointment
French menswear brand Berluti has confirmed the appointment of Haider Ackermann as creative director; he will show his first collection for the house in January.
Ackermann replaces Alessandro Sartori who left the brand earlier this year, to rejoin Ermenegildo Zegna, when a number of men's fashion houses parted company with their creative chiefs after Milan Men's Fashion Week.
According to WWD, Hackermann's flambouyant, more casual style may seem a departure from Berluti's sartorial image but the brand is increasingly selling more casual clothing. “We are not a sartorial brand,” CEO Antoine Arnault told the publication. “If you go to our stores, yes we do have high-end bespoke. But we are a luxury men’s wear brand where sartorial meets casual. And when you see our product mix, a mix of both makes it interesting.”
Berluti, which is part of the LVMH luxury conglomerate, began life as a footwear brand and under Arnault it has been transformed into a fully fledged lifestyle brand with shoes still accounting for around 50% of its offer.
Ackermann is a womenswear designer by background but moved into menswear following an invitation to be guest designer at Florence menswear fair Pitti Uomo in 2010. He went on to formally launch his collection in 2013, which will continue to be produced.