Designers opted for cosy cocooning when it came to AW20 outerwear as wide cuts and the kinds of materials you just want to wrap round yourself made it a potentially strong season for coats.
That’s a brave move in a world where smaller, casual coats are the top pick for many shoppers and aren’t something they’ll buy every year. But perhaps the success of items like the Max Mara teddy bear coat for AW19/20 has proved encouraging. So think roomy coats in blanket woollens (windowpane checks are key), tweeds, lighter woollens but with warm linings and faux furs.
Designers also continued to back capes and ponchos for the new season, with offerings that can be as smart or as casual as the wearer chooses. For evening, capes were a key part of many red carpet look, but this is largely a daytime story as trench-coat style formal capes contrasted with blanket wraps and ultra-casual hooded styles that worked well with jeans and boots. Colours were kept earthy or neutral with greys, tans, kahkis, browns and sand tones.
And of course, we can’t forget puffers. These weren’t a massive feature on the runways (or in the lookbooks), but there’s no getting away from the fact that these are what many consumers actually buy when the temperature drops. The new season’s puffers came in animal print or shiny black in full-length versions for maximum protection from the cold. But there was also a strong trend for quilting with designers maybe feeling that their customers need some padding but perhaps not the all-embracing impact of a duvet coat. Quilting is the perfect compromise.